I’ve been away, on an island and then there was rain and storms. As long as the weather holds up I’ll have a quick one pretty soon about an angle iron ladder rack.
I finally get a chance to work on the mower this season. It’s that time of year when the grass is taller than the dogs.
I poured in some sea foam to get the carb cleaned out, the engine started and sputtered out. I could not get it to crank properly. It kept acting like the valve lash needed to be adjusted, but I just did that:
Next I checked the oil, there was bunches in there, but not just oil. I drained it out and found about half a gallon of old oil, fowled fuel, and possibly water. Looks like a carb needle was stuck open and I left the pet cock opened at the end of last season, so all the fuel drained into the cylinder and seeped past the rings into the crank!
I refilled filled the oil, added fresh fuel, and it cranked right up and ran very nicley. Now I need to replace the fuel lines and filter, the dang ethanol eats them away and I can see little black chunks coming off in the tank. The deck belt is also stretched and the battery needs to be replaced.
Needles to say, I pay about 70 plus dollars every year, just to make this machine run again. It’ll get going, but its to wet to mow today anyway, so maybe next weekend I’ll actually get to chop down the grass.
I found this when looking around for stuff. Ignition with frikin’ lasers on thier heads!
I was digging around the innerwebz and just found this site. MagnumSwap.com has a lot of good info on the LA-318/360 and Magnum 5.2/5.9L engines, and what parts they can swap between the two for a conversion.
As promised I’ve finished the intake plumbing from the last post. I had to cut a hole in the inner fender right in front of and under the air box:
Then I installed the flexi hose I had on hand and ran it down the hole:
I removed the passenger side fog lamp and installed the 3″ to 4″ adaptor in the hole:
To keep the adaptor in the hole, I found an old nylon ratchet tie down and wrapped the 4″ side fo the adaptor with it. Then I covered that with electric tape and pressed it into the hole by hand. It holes nice and snug.
Now I’m going to watch Roadkill!
After the oil filter re-locator post, I said I’d be back to fix the intake. Well, here we go! The inlet to the air box has an odd shaped hole, that I can’t just put a connector on:
I lobbed that off and put a 3″ PVC drain pipe fitting on the face with some Ultra Black RTV to seal it. Before every one goes and gets all butt hurt about how I’m choking the engine, don’t worry. The duct from the airbox gets abit smaller than what you see going into the fender. I’ve also run a 3″ pipe on this engine before with no issues. It’s a daily driver, not exactly a performance machine that needs Mega CFM’s. Overall, I didn’t measure, but the old output connector was about a 3.5 inch diameter if it was circular, not a big loss:
I did trim the front of the pipe shorter, but now I need to get some flexi-duct ready. I already had this accordian style duct on hand, and made a grill out of speaker mesh to keep the bugs out. I’m thinking that the 4″ to 3″ adaptor will fit right where the driver side fog lamp goes.
I need a tool to cut a hole for that, so stay tuned for part 2!
We’ll it’s raining again, no truck stuff today, maybe I find a tech post this weekend.
**** Be safe don’t do anything you see me doing ****
**** Make sure who have the vehicle surley supported witch jack stands ****
**** Dont stretch leafs with a jack ****
**** Fire is hot! ****
**** Power tools are more powerful than your flesh! ****
SO, the bolts had corrosion welded themselves to the bushings, I had to chop them off flush and then press the rubbers out with a ball joint press, after I torched the suckers loose. Kind of like this guy:
To get those out I put a saw-zaw blade in the hole and cut them in half longways. Then I got a big electric hammer and pressed them out.
Then even with the truck frame jacked all the way up, the wheels hung, but the back of the leafs still did not hang enough to get the new shackles in. A jack between them and the frame fixed that:
**** Don’t do that at your home!!! ****
After all that, I used my big electric hammer to press the new bushings in. The jack between the fram and spring also served to stretch the springs down to get the to match up with the bottom of the new shackles.
I used grade 8 bolts and ny-lock nuts. The instructions said to tighten everything to around 100ft-lbs, but getting anywhere close just started bending the mounts. I’m not worried about it coming loose due to the ny-locks though.
I’ll post a pic or two tomorrow after it’s light and I have the truck on level ground.
I’ve never had to remove leaf spring bushings before. Those little metal cans don’t like to press out. Details to come.
It’s done. I had to chop my 7/8th wrench to a stubby so I could tighten the barbs that I did swap with the pugs of the engine manifold. The transmission was in the way, so I could not do this before it was installed.
*The above image is rotated correctly, it is just displayed side ways. I can’t figure out why.
Here’s were I mounted the easy to access filter manifold:
The last 5% is just finishing the intake ducting.